Types of Lace on Girls' Dresses: Chantilly, Valenciennes, Guipure and More
Lace is the detail people touch first. It is on the collar, the hem, the little cuff at the wrist. But "lace" is a whole family of very different fabrics, and the type on a dress changes how it looks, how it feels against a child's skin and how long it lasts. Here are the ones you are most likely to meet on a girl's dress, and how to recognize them.
Valenciennes: the heirloom classic
Valenciennes, often just called "Val" lace, comes from the town of Valenciennes in northern France, where it was made by hand on bobbins. It is flat and fine, with a small diamond or round mesh and delicate flowers woven straight into the ground. Unlike many laces, it has no thicker outline thread around the motifs, which is why it lies so softly.
That softness is the reason Val lace has been used for christening gowns, smocked dresses and French hand-sewing for generations. It is gentle at the neckline and on the arm, and it washes well.
How to recognize it: narrow edging, very light, no raised outline, often in white or ivory cotton.
Chantilly: the romantic one
Chantilly lace takes its name from the town of Chantilly, near Paris. It has a very fine net background with flowers, ribbons and scrolls that are outlined with a slightly thicker thread (lace makers call it a cordonnet). The result looks almost like a drawing on tulle.
Historically it was handmade in silk and famous in black. Today most Chantilly-style lace is made on machines, in cotton or nylon blends, and appears on special-occasion dresses, sleeves and overlays.
How to recognize it: sheer net ground, flowers with a fine outline, a light, airy drape.
Cluny: the country cousin
Cluny is a bobbin lace with a heavier thread and bold geometric shapes: wheels, petals, leaves arranged in patterns. It is associated with the Le Puy region of France and takes its name from the Cluny Museum in Paris, which holds old examples of similar work.
Because the thread is thicker, Cluny lace has a handmade, cottage look and holds up well to everyday wear. It is lovely on hems and pinafores.
How to recognize it: thicker cotton thread, geometric motifs, a slightly textured, rustic feel.
Guipure and Venise: lace without the net
Guipure lace has no net background at all. The motifs are joined together by small bars, so the lace stands on its own and has more body. Venise lace is a type of guipure inspired by Venetian needle lace, with raised flowers and a sculpted look.
These laces are often used for collars, bodices and appliqués because they keep their shape. On children's clothing, a good guipure should still feel smooth on the inside, with no scratchy edges.
How to recognize it: no mesh, motifs linked by little bridges, a firmer, three-dimensional surface.
Broderie anglaise and eyelet: embroidery that looks like lace
Broderie anglaise is technically not lace but whitework embroidery: small holes are cut or punched into cotton and then edged with stitching, forming flowers and scallops. It became hugely popular in 19th-century England for children's dresses and petticoats, and is still a summer favorite.
Because it is built on a cotton base, it is breathable and very durable, a good choice for dresses that will be worn often.
How to recognize it: a woven cotton fabric with stitched-around holes, often with a scalloped edge.
Handmade or machine-made?
Almost all lace on clothing today is made by machine, and that is not a bad thing. Good machine lace can be beautiful and far more practical. What matters for a child is the quality of the thread and the finish:
- Soft fiber. Cotton and cotton blends usually feel gentler than stiff synthetic lace.
- Clean edges. Run your finger along the inside of the collar and cuffs. Nothing should prick or scratch.
- Secure attachment. Lace should be stitched in evenly, with no loose ends that small fingers can pull.
Caring for lace
Most lace on children's dresses is happiest washed cold, inside out, in a mesh laundry bag, and dried flat or on a hanger. Skip chlorine bleach, which weakens fibers and can yellow cotton lace over time. Our heirloom care guide covers stains, ironing and storage step by step.
Lace is one of the reasons a dress becomes the dress: the one in the photographs, the one saved for a little sister. Knowing what you are looking at makes it easier to choose one that will last.